South Goa – India’s Scenic Jewel

We did it. After eleven days in the North of India with only one or two nights in every destination and a total of two flights, four trains and countless taxis and tuk-tuks, we made it to Goa relatively unscathed.

By relatively I mean having to have a tetanus shot in the bum after cutting myself on a metal lock. When I got to the hospital and sat on the bed, I began to roll up my sleeve. I was then told to actually lie down on my front, which I thought was strange, and comically when the nurse started rolling down the back of my shorts I began to wonder where Kea had actually taken me.

The jab cost 150 Rupees, about £1.50 and I was treated like absolute royalty throughout my visit. I was rushed through on entry, met by the hospital manager and treated instantly. See my previous blog where I comment on this form of white privilege. You do naturally feel guilty when in these situations but the people here insist and they want to help you, often providing preferential treatment for being guests in their country.

Rocks on the beach, South Goa

Why Goa?

I knew a little about Goa; that it was invaded and occupied by the Portuguese in 1510 and that it is best known for its beautiful array of beaches, scenery and wildlife. It helps that my parents have been the last two years who gave us good advice and even better recommendations. It’s funny how families and/or parents/people within families have certain affiliations to certain places.

My parents and family's go-to spiritual home is Thailand. We’ve all been several times, this year will be my third, but my parents must have visited a dozen times. One of the reasons for this, which has worked out extremely fortuitously for us, is that one of my Dad’s best friends growing up decided to do some travelling at the same age as myself, twenty-seven, but never came home. He lives in Chiang Mai, a stunning town situated in the North and as a result, my parents and I have visited a number of times, including at his and his wife’s wedding some fifteen years ago. Who knows, maybe I won’t come home either.

Palolem, South Goa

However, after visiting other countries just as wonderful as Thailand, I told my parents to try something new. I can’t remember why or how they heard and decided upon Goa but I’m glad they did. And low and behold, they became besotted by the place. In writing this piece at Goa International Airport, with sadness to say goodbye but with joy and memories to savour, we did too.

Vindaloo. A dish native to Goa inspired by the Portuguese sailors marinating their pork in vinegar-turned wine to preserve the meat on their long expedition over the seas from Portugal to Goa – loosely translated as meat marinated in wine vinegar and garlic. Since then the dish has evolved, adopting local spices and flavours to become the popular dish that we know today. Now I know that because of ‘The Curry Bible’, a cookbook we have at home that I have dissected front to back. If you know me, you know that I am obsessed with curry – from Thai Green Curry to Lamb Korai, Prawn Vindaloo to Beef Rendang. This book is my bible. It has helped me learn not just how to cook many different types of curry from all over the world but also the origins and the meanings behind them. Finally, I had landed in curry heaven!

Sunset time, Agonda

Through the eyes of a Portuguese sailor

I fell asleep in the one-hour forty-five-minute taxi journey from the airport to our first destination in Goa, Agonda. Waking up still in a sleepy daze I underpaid the driver 1000 Rupees (roughly £9). Stumbling through the jungle-like entrance of our beach-front accommodation to the rustic wooden cabins we were to stay in, I soon woke up. Appearing through the bowed palm trees, luscious green shrubbery and the stylishly broken and dimly candle-lit stone path was everything we had been waiting for. For that moment I took myself back in time and into the shoes of a Portuguese sailor, unbeknownst to where exactly he really was or to where he had just landed. But he and I both knew one thing… that we had arrived in paradise.

Agonda, South Goa, is everything I imagine southern Thailand to have been like thirty years ago before the tourist and commercial invasion. Here there is one beach two miles long. But what makes it so unique is that in order to protect Turtle populations and Turtle mothers laying eggs, large boats, jet skis, water activities, sun loungers deck chairs etc are not allowed.

Some might call this ‘boring’ but for me it is perfect. A faultless balance of great-sized waves for surfing and swimming, imperfectly perfect rock formations that create still natural swimming pools, relaxed beach bars and restaurants to soak up the sunset and evening atmosphere as well as sporadic games of volleyball and cricket popping up along the waterfront during the day. I think it’ll do.

As free as a bird (Eagle)

We weren’t as fortunate as others to see any Dolphins on our small boat tour to neighbouring secluded beaches but instead were treated to a majestic White-bellied sea eagle soaring overhead before it performed a kamikaze-style nose dive into the Persian Sea. Appearing moments later with a large mackerel grasped in its talons, it was a successful hunt and quite the sight.

Agonda is a very unique coastal town. I can’t think of many places where you can look out to sea, and back to land from the sea, and watch Eagles flying overheard, Monkeys jumping from tree to building and back, wild Cows strolling up and down the beach, if you’re lucky a Dolphin silhouette leaping out of the waves and even luckier, a Jaguar in the jungle upon the small mountain south of the beach. I always seem to be at peace when I can see the sky touch the sea – the calming mystery of the horizon makes me smile with intrigue yet fills me with comfort.

Further south are two smaller beaches, Palolem and Patnem. Palolem is far busier with both regular Western and Indian visitors, especially on weekends. By day the beach is scattered with fishing and tour boats, sunbeds and many more people. But by evening the beach is transformed into a stunning one-mile-long restaurant (that is of course different restaurants all next to each other that give the illusion of one restaurant). Hundreds of candle-lit tables create quite the sight and quite the atmosphere, especially with many of the restaurants showcasing live music. However, all-in-all Palolem was slightly too commercial for us, especially after coming from Agonda.

Patnem, South Goa

Patnem was quite the opposite. A smaller and quieter beach but with a very special feel to it. The characters here seemed to be those types that have lived here for many years, some retired, several that own and run Yoga/Pilates studios and plenty of digital nomads. Hippies and spiritual gurus – a much more relaxed and slower pace to it yet only the other side of a tiny peninsula from Palolem. If White Lotus and Death in Paradise had a child, it would be Patnem – without the death but there is certainly an undertone that some funky stuff happens here.

A new home from home

We couldn’t help ourselves and extended our stay in South Goa by five days and headed back to Agonda. It is exactly what we had been craving for so long and that had only been encouraged further by surviving the intensity of the first part of our trip.

Religiously we made sure we were on the seafront every evening for the deep red and golden orange sunsets. Whether that be at a beachside bar with a cold beer, the lion-king style rock upon the small seaside mountain in Agonda or in the sea itself, thanking the sun and saying goodbye to the day felt like a ritual practised by everyone in South Goa. For me this attitude sums up the place; where people prioritise the little things in life and the things that we easily miss when we are caught up in the business of everyday life back home. It’s a place where people remain firmly in touch with themself, their surroundings and nature. If we do not make the time to appreciate these things and show gratitude and hope, what is the point?

Hazy sunset, South Goa

And the food, my word. Fresh seafood cooked on the BBQ; Red Snapper, King Fish, Tuna, Grouper, Squid, King Prawns the size of Lobsters and Lobsters the size of small sausage dogs. Chicken, Paneer and veg marinated in mouth-watering spices and roasted in the tandoori ovens. Curries with flavours that take your taste buds to places they’ve never been before. Great options to satisfy the craving of the western pallet and all for a price that would laugh in the face of a dinner for two in London. Two curries, a rice to share, a couple of chapatti and a couple of beers each… a tenner between us.

Overall it was the perfect eleven days that we needed to relax, rejuvenate and prepare us for our onward travels. Our flip-flops and swimmers are back in our bags and our trainers and rucksacks are back on. Next stop, Kerala.